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In Stitch-and-Glue Boatbuilding, one of the leading practitioners and teachers of the craft assembles the definitive how-to manual for the most popular method of amateur boatbuilding today. Enlivened with tales of boat shop mishaps and designs gone bad that entertain as they instruct, this invaluable book includes full plans and assembly instructions for nine boats--seven kayaks, a sailing skiff, and a wherry. Step-by-step photos and drawings make this an ideal guide for visual learners.
- Sales Rank: #132007 in Books
- Published on: 2005-07-08
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.70" h x .50" w x 8.80" l, 1.28 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 256 pages
From the Back Cover
Your guide to the most popular method of amateur boatbuilding
Building a stitch-and-glue boat brings you as close as you’ll ever get to instant boatbuilding. It’s the fastest, easiest method yet devised for creating a strong, beautiful, seaworthy craft with your own hands. Now, one of the world’s premier stitch-and-glue designers, builders, and teachers gives you the information and guidance you need to build the boat of your dreams in your backyard, basement, or garage.
Chris Kulczycki explains why you don’t need to be a master craftsman with dozens of specialized tools to create a sleek, responsive small boat. He lays out the basic stitch-and-glue building techniques; outlines the shortcuts and pitfalls; and details the materials you’ll need. Then he guides you through each phase of the building process, from cutting plywood panels and stitching them together to gluing the seams with epoxy to fiberglassing, sanding, painting, finishing, and outfitting.
Praise for Chris Kulczycki’s The Kayak Shop:
“Recommended reading for anyone who wants to paddle a boat of their own creation.” --Sea Kayaker
“This book should prove to be one of the standards on boatbuilding that will be on every small boat builder's bookshelf.” --Upper Midwest Kayak Touring News
About the Author
Chris Kulczycki is the author of The New Kayak Shop and the founder of Chesapeake Light Craft, the largest boat kit and plan manufacturer in the world. More than 10,000 boats have been built from his plans.
Most helpful customer reviews
35 of 42 people found the following review helpful.
A shill for CLC boats
By kgyakker
I bought this book hoping that it would be a good starter book for building stitch and glue kayaks and canoes. While it is a good book with information on the stitch and glue process, the concentration is along the lines of the Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC) boat kits. There are no plans in the book although what fooled me while I checked out the book at the bookstore, was that a portion of the CLC plans were reproduced in the book, but nothing to build a boat from (obviously) but that was not stated anywhere on the cover or in any kind of noticeable fashion until you start to read the text. I have heard that you should read the first chapter or two before you buy a book such as this, however, I typically don't do that and it cost me to waste time and money this time (it is stated in the intro or first chapter that this book uses CLC's boats as the point of reference and that there are no buildable plans in the book, had I seen that before I bought it, I would not have bought this book). I have read from builders of CLC boats that their kits have given newbie boat kit builders problems and I believe this book was written mostly for them. This became evident to me when I realized that, in addition to lacking plans, there was no information on even designing your own boat to utilize these techniques with nor any info. on converting plans for boats built via different methods (like strip built boats and, for kayaks and canoes, skin on frame designs). I have boatbuilding books for skin on frame and strip built boats and they include both plans and how-to general design for similar boats to those in those books.
In short, unless you're building a boat kit, avoid this book, I believe there are other books out there that not only deal with the basics of S&G boatbuilding, but also provide plans to use to apply those skills.
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
a good book for the scope stated in its title
By ldflippen
I recently purchased this book and I generally agree with the positive reviews given here. I particularly like the Mill Creek 16.5 design in the book for myself. I also own the author's book "The New Kayak Shop", but I prefer this one myself. I felt that the strong negative review given here by kgyakker is very misleading and may needlessly deter someone from buying this book, compelling me to write my own in-depth review. In particular, I fully agree with McCambidge's review in that the plans in the book CAN be used to build any of the boats (in spite of the lack of bulkhead, deck, etc. dimensions or offsets), and this is supported by the fact that he actually built one. Like him, I am also an engineer, in fact a former engineering professor and researcher. I have not been able to build any boats myself as yet due to disabling medical conditions from which I have been slowly recovering. I am looking forward to my future first build however. I feel qualified to comment anyway as I have virtually all of the books on Amazon concerning boat construction for all the methods of construction, a large collection of boat plans from most of the well known (and lesser known) designers, and have read/digested most of these over a period of years. I feel that I have a reasonable intellectual grasp of the topic, including things like lofting, etc., but I am clearly missing hands-on building experience. Comments:
1) It is always a good idea in my opinion to own more than one book on the method of construction that one intends to use in building a boat. You will probably find one author with whom you feel the most rapport, muliple perspectives are great for learning, and one can then choose aspects from each author that one likes to incorporate into one's own individual building technique as you develop one. For stitch and glue, this book is a fine choice for your collection.
2) Regarding this book (or any book on stitch and glue boat construction with plans in it) the essential things that the plans must have in order to build are: a) hull panel offsets, b) locations of bulkheads, deck beams, knees, thwarts, bouyancy tank frames, skegs, etc. on the hull, c) scantlings (such as the thickness of various plywood parts, gunnel/shear clamp cross section dimensions, knee thickness, deckbeam thickness/radius, bulkhead/transom framing reinforcement details if present, etc.) for maintaining hull structural integrity. (Sailboat plans need, in addition, to give details regarding the sail, spars, rigging, rudder, centerboard, etc.) The plans in this book have all of these essential elements. Accurate but scaled down drawings of the bulkheads, knees, etc. (without dimensions) are given in the book, but one can make use of these by scaling them up and fairing the scaled-up versions with battens if needed (as the scaling up process can possibly create small errors). This scaling up process is probably best done after the hull is stitched so that one can take dimensions off of that directly (at bulkhead, etc. locations) to aid in the scaling. My feeling on this is that some degree of custion fitting of the bulkheads, knees, etc. are probably needed anyway on a stitch and glue boat because of small hull shape variations induced in the cutting/stitching/taping process from specific boat to specific boat. This is reinforced in my mind by the fact that some of my stitch and glue (and plywood lap) plans I own assume that one will custom fit the bulkheads, knees, etc to the resulting hull shape anyway. Of course, the gap filling advantage of epoxy can aid in this.
3) If one is too inexperienced or too intimidated to build a boat without full scale bulkhead, knee, etc. patterns, then you should go ahead and buy the plans from the designer. Better yet, if you are really intimidated as a first time builder, and do not even want to loft the hull panels, then buy the kit (if there is one) if you have the money. An additional advantage of buying the plans (or kit) is that you can expect a reasonable amount of phone/email support from the designer as you build.
4) The stitch and glue process description in the book is not limited to Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC) designs, but is more universal. In addition to the traditional stitch and glue process, the lap stitch technique (developed by CLC) described is very interesting to read about, and is another reason to buy the book. The technique can clearly be adapted to non-CLC designs with some thought.
5) Regarding comments by kgyakker on the lack of material in the book on designing your own boat: First of all, most of the boat construction books I have do not give any significant instruction on designing one's own boat. A few do give some brief background and suggestions which would still require a lot more research on the part of the reader to actually do a reasonable design. Besides, there are books written specifically on boat design that one can buy, so if that is what you want to do then it makes more sense to buy one of those. There are a lot of technical issues to be addressed in designing one's own boat, from structural integrity to making sure that the results sit properly on its lines. Most design is now done with software, but it can still be done by iterating on a design with a series of models. As an engineer with structural knowledge (including finite element coding) as well as extensive experience in actually designing and writing engineering software, I have a pretty good idea as to what is in modern boat design software regarding the algorithms used. I also own and have casually read several books on boat design. Even with such knowledge, I feel too inexperienced to design my own boat as yet without having first built many boats from professional plans and then having a lot of first hand experience in using such boats. A badly designed boat can actually be dangerous to use, and amatuer boat design should be a carefully considered endeavor. It is unreasonable to expect this book to describe this entire process in sufficient detail in my opinion, as it should easily be the topic of an entire book unto itself in order to be addressed properly. A very narrow scope, such as skin-on-frame kayak design for example, may be more amenable to a more abridged treatment.
6) Regarding comments by kgyakker on the lack of material in the book on converting strip-built and skin-on-frame boat plans to stitch-and-glue: strip-built and skin-on-frame boat plans consist of, at its core, faired station form offsets to physically construct station forms. Traditional round hull plan offsets are typically also used to construct station forms for building the boat after fairing them (using waterline and buttocks line information) in three dimensions by lofting, which can be done by software nowadays. For "non-traditional" or "fuselage" type skin-on-frame boat plans for example, conversion between strip and skin-on-frame station frames involves changing the location/spacing and the number of frames using the same hull shape by software (based on the scantlings in the skin-on-frame case). If converting from strip one still has to decide where to attach the battens on the station frames (actually bulkheads) over which the outer skin is stretched. In this sense one may view such battens on a skin-on-frame as chines. Converting station form offsets to hull panel offsets involves some real expertise in using the relevant software so as to generate multichine hull panels that are (or are very close to) developable surfaces, that simultaneously comform well to the given station forms, so that they can be rendered in plywood. The same software generally allows the user to accurately unfold the hull panels as they lay on the hull into flat shapes that can be cut from plywood sheets. Hull panel offsets can then be generated from these flat shapes if desired. This conversion can also be done by iterating a design by a series of models, but this is very time consuming, and the resulting panel shapes will still probably need fairing/adjusting when scaled to full size. Again, it is unreasonable to expect this book to describe this entire process in sufficient detail in my opinion.
7) Bottom line, I have no problem recommending this book for the scope over which it was intended.
7 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
not really "plans", but offsets and hints are included
By M. MCCAMBRIDGE
I bought this book for the scaled-down plans so I wasn't happy to discover there aren't dimensions given on many of the drawings (bulkheads, deck, etc), they more resemble advertisements for the full scale plans which are sold separately. However full hull offsets are provided which is the one part you can't figure out on your own, as well as clear simple assembly hints. I'm an engineer with zero woodworking or fiberglass experience, I was able to build a beautiful, simple kayak from this book.
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